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CONJUNCTIONS:31 Fall 1998 |
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Head Coverings in Skopje Peter Handke
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A POSSIBLE MINOR EPIC: of the various head coverings of the passersby
in large cities, as, for example, in Skopje in Macedonia/Yugoslavia
on December 10, 1987. There were even, right in the metropolis, those
"Passe-Montagne" or mountain-climbing caps, covering the nose below
and the forehead above and leaving only the eyes uncovered, and among
them the bicycle-cart drivers with black little Moslem caps glued to
their skulls, while next to them at the edge of the street an old man
said goodby to his daughter or niece from Titograd/Montenegro or
Vipava/Slovenia, multiple steep gables in his hood, an Islamic window
and capital ornament (his daughter or niece cried). It was snowing in
southernmost Yugoslavia and thawing at the same time. And then a man
passed by with a white, crocheted forage cap shot through with
oriental patterns under the dripping snow, followed by a blond girl
with a thick bright stocking cap (topped by a tassel), followed
immediately by a bespectacled man with a beret, a dark blue stem on
top, followed by the beret of a long-legged soldier and by a pair of
peaked police caps with concave surfaces. A man walked past then with
a fur cap, earlaps turned up, in the midst of swarms of women wearing
black cloths over their heads. After that a man with a checked fez --
slung over his ear, in magpie black and white, Parzival's
half-brother, piebald Feirefiz. His companion carried a
leather-and-fur cap, and after them came a child with a
black-and-white ear band. The child was followed by a man with a
salt-and-pepper hat, a black-market magnate suavely making his way
along the Macedonian bazaar street in the slushy snow. The troop of
soldiers then, with the Tito-star on the prows of their caps. After
them a man with a brown-wool Tyrolean hat, front brim turned down,
the back brim turned straight up, a silver badge on the side. A
little girl hopping by with a bright deerskin hood, lined. A man with
a whitish-gray shepherd's hat wound by a red band. A fat woman with a
linen-white cook's scarf, fringed in the back. A young man with a
multi-layered leather cap, each layer a different color. A man pushed
a cart and had a plastic cap over his ears, his chin wrapped in a
Palestinian scarf. One man walked along then with a rose-patterned
cap, and gradually even the bareheaded passersby seemed to be
equipped with head coverings -- hair itself a covering. Child,
carried, with a night cap, intersected by woman with slanted, broadly
sweeping movie hat: there was no keeping up with the variety. A
beauty in glasses walked past with a pale violet Borsalino hat and
sauntered around the corner, followed by a very small woman with a
towering cable-knit hat she had knitted herself, followed by an
infant with a sombrero on its still open fontanel, carried by a girl
with an oversized beret made in Hongkong. A boy with a shawl around
his neck and ears. An older boy with skier's earmuffs, logo TRICOT.
And so on. That beautiful And so on. That beautiful And so on.
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